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 Claire de Lune’s impressive pedigree makes the menu at Slide one of Sydney’s tastiest, and most unique, dining experiences, writes Devi Noronha.
Bubbly wine isn’t the only exquisite delight to originate from the champagne region of France. Equally irresistible is the intoxicating company of Claire de Lune (aka Marc Kuzma, the creative director and gastronomic force behind Oxford Street nightclub and lounge, Slide.
Named after a famous piece of music by Débussy, Claire de Lune (which translates into moonshine and is added with an ‘e’ to make the name sound more feminine) began to appear on the drag circuit 16 years ago. The irrepressible French character was created as a result of Marc’s strong accent and the fact that he feels more comfortable singing in his mother tongue.
With a background as a formally trained chef, Marc was able to combine his dual passions for drag and food, when he shot to fame with a cooking segment Channel Nine’s The Midday Show with Kerrie Anne. Numerous accolades followed, including winning three DIVA awards, taking part in the closing ceremony of the Sydney Olympic Games and appearing in the semi-autobiographical musical, From D’Rags To Riches.
These days, Marc performs less regularly but has found the perfect synthesis for his artistic interests at Slide. “I have total control of the look of the place,” he tells SX.
“I am a chef by trade so I have total control of the kitchen and being a cabaret [venue] three nights a week, I am in my element. I create the lighting, I help put the acts together – so creatively, it’s fabulous!”
Marc stipulates that the food policy at Slide is to “serve simple food using good quality ingredients” with a strong French/Mediterranean influence such as a game terrine or Claire’s signature dish soufflé. Slide’s focus on marrying food and entertainment shines through each night of the week, but more so with El’ Circo (Spanish for circus), an evening featuring a nine-course degustation menu with an accompanying cabaret act for each dish. On these evenings, Marc says: “We go completely crazy as we play with molecular cuisine!”
‘Molecular cuisine’ is a way of deconstructing food to change its basic shape, texture and presentation, Marc says. For instance, an insalata caprese, a traditional salad made from tomato, basil and bocconcini, is turned into a paste and served in a syringe to squeeze onto biscuits. A chocolate tart is accompanied by ‘molecular caviar’, which looks like fish roe, but is actually made from oranges.
Sauces are dished out as solid when they are hot then liquify as they cool down, and other dishes are presented in test tubes, petri dishes and balloons.
Despite the fact that he hasn’t had any time off in three years, Marc insists he has never been happier than where he is now in life.
“I’m just being myself in everything I do,” he says. “I have never had to compromise, never had to lie about being gay, never had to do something I didn’t want to do for either my restaurant or my drag career. I am exactly who I wanted to be.”
Slide
41 Oxford Street
Darlinghurst
Tel: (02) 8915 1899
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