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Robert La Bua enters Slovakia and finds lots of surprises.
The 1990s brought a whole new era of tourism to the countries of Central Europe. The Czech Republic and its jewel of a capital Prague swiftly ascended to the top of every sophisticated traveller’s and British weekender’s must-visit list, but the tail end of the former Czechoslovakia was left to be confused with Slovenia.
Slovakia, one of Europe’s newest countries, is also one of its least appreciated. It is not yet overrun with tourists despite having an excellent tourism infrastructure. The gay scene is totally underground; maybe you like it that way, you sordid thing, you.
Slovakia, too, has a jewel of a capital. Bratislava was also a capital in the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and as such was endowed with palaces and grand architecture of the same calibre as fellow capitals Vienna and Budapest, albeit in lesser proliferation.
At once grand and intimate, Bratislava is the little brother of the college jock, attractive in looks and personality but languishing in the shadow of his sibling’s limelight. Bratislava’s Old Town is a charming convolution of narrow lanes framed by major streets lined with grand buildings housing embassies and art museums.
North of Bratislava is the spa town of Piestany, where mud baths and massages are deftly administered. The hot, nearly black mud spread over aching joints is as smooth as silk and a great de-stresser. Wallow at will. In the nearby town of Salgovce is the fine The Chateau, a manor house run by a pair of Brits seeking a new life outside Old Blighty.
Nothing pleases the owners more than to have guests kick off their shoes and make themselves at home. Gay visitors are extended a warm welcome; the champagne was flowing even before we had our bags unpacked.
Another spa town, Sklene Templice, combines the best of cave and spa experiences. Here, there is a thermal bath inside a cave; it is available by reservation only for up to eight people at a time. If you have a party of eight or are willing to pay eight entry fees, you can have the entire cavespa to yourself for the hour.
Slovakia’s countryside is dotted with picturesque villages in sylvan settings. Facov is where I had my sheep encounter; as an avowed fan of all things ovine, I was delighted to have the very accommodating brawny farmer cut a dripping sack of cheese from the rack, tear it open, and produce a thick wedge for me to taste.
Eastern Slovakia offers the most surprising sights in the country. Here, towns founded in the thirteenth century by German settlers created wealthy towns whose Renaissance buildings somehow survived years of neglect and wintry weather.
Levoca is home to a stately town square replete with the arcaded city hall and The Cage Of Shame, where criminals and other do-badders were exhibited for public humiliation back in the days when criminals did not get multi-million-dollar book deals. Unlike the cave spa, The Cage is not for hire.
The very capable tour operator Via Carpathia can make all your arrangements; it is run by two charming brothers, Matej and Jan Sanitrar, both of whom know the country from one end to the other. The Slovak Tourist Board offers helpful information both online and in print.
www.gay.sk
www.sacr.sk
www.viacarpathia.com
www.slovensko.com
www.thechateau.sk
www.spapiestany.sk
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