| Homage to Catalonia |
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| Wednesday, 01 October 2008 20:46 |
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On the subject of little monsters, this stylish tapas bar sits in the shadow of the Harbour Bridge in Kirribilli – a suburb whose name still makes me shudder, as it was the preferred lair of our now-banished former leader. But Kirribilli seems like a shinier, happier place these days; strangers smile at you, birds sing, and there are cool restaurants to hang out in. Chef Brian Villahermosa and business partner Thomas Hoff opened this one a year ago, inspired by the tapas bars of Barcelona, as a laid-back place for snacking and slurping on Spanish wines and cocktails. The beverage list includes a 42 Below World Cup finalist, designed by Hoff, that goes by the name of Mamma Manuka’s Cherry Pie ($15). A smooth pink blend of Manuka honey vodka, cherry liqueur and cherries, it’s topped with egg white froth and coconut and is a slice of heaven in a glass. My companion’s Slangria ($15) is a refreshing white wine sangria amped up with rum and apricot liqueur. Presumably it’s called a Slangria because you’ll start slurring your words if you drink more than one. Morcilla with asparagus and a deep fried duck egg ($16.50) is a variation on a rustic northern Spanish breakfast dish. The blood sausage absorbs the yellow yolk when you pierce the flash-fried egg. Asparagus slices lighten up the blood’s ferric tang and the egg’s gamey richness. Best looking dish of the night is the scallops on truffled potato mash ($18.50). Those little crisp daggers of jamon sticking out of the mash aren’t just for show: they round out the flavour profile of the scallops and the truffle oil. Small cones of squid ($16), meanwhile, come stuffed with rice and pine nuts and a slash of very garlicky saffron aioli. Villahermosa’s masterstroke here is to garnish the dish with squid tentacles fried in squid ink batter – a black, salty, crunchy contrast to all that soft, chewy whiteness. On top of all these inventive flavour and texture combinations you can add friendly, knowledgeable service from the floor team. I have a feeling this corner of Kirribilli is going to be very popular this summer. Nick Dent This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Tue-Fri 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10pm |
When you bite on a deep fried vegetable you don’t expect it to taste of honey. The tempura zucchini flowers ($15) at Catalonia have been drizzled with it, contrasting nicely with the salty goat’s cheese mousse stuffed inside. Parents, this sweetly savoury tapas dish could be the way to tempt your little monsters to eat their greens.